Greenhouse film is the single biggest material decision in most protected-cropping projects. It sets how much light reaches the crop, how hot the house runs at midday, how much condensation drips onto leaves and how often the cover has to be replaced. This guide explains what greenhouse film is, which specifications matter and how to match film to East African conditions.
What is greenhouse film?
Greenhouse film is a transparent or light-diffusing plastic cover made for greenhouses, tunnels and other protected-cultivation structures. Unlike ordinary plastic sheeting, it is formulated for long outdoor exposure and for its effect on crops.
Most films are based on LDPE, LLDPE, EVA or other polyolefins, often combined in multilayer structures. Additives give the film its working properties:
- UV stabilisers that slow breakdown under sunlight
- Infrared (thermal) additives that reduce night-time heat loss
- Anti-drip and anti-fog agents that spread condensation into a thin sheet instead of droplets
- Diffusion agents that scatter light more evenly through the canopy
European standard EN 13206 is a useful reference for the properties buyers should ask about: thickness, tensile strength, impact resistance, light transmission and haze.
How thick should greenhouse film be?
Greenhouse films typically range from about 80 to 200 microns (μm). Around 150 μm is a common long-life specification, while thinner films suit temporary tunnels and short seasons. Harsh sites may justify 180–200 μm.
Thickness alone does not decide service life. Resin quality, UV package, structure design, film tension and contact with hot or rough frames matter just as much.
PE, EVA and PO films compared
- PE (polyethylene): the economical, widely used option. Good for seasonal and budget projects.
- EVA blends: more flexible and better at holding heat, with a typical service life of around 3 to 5 years depending on UV protection and conditions.
- PO (polyolefin) multilayer films: usually the longest life and most stable additive performance, at a higher price. “PO” is a loose trade term, so ask which resins and layers are actually used.
More layers allow finer placement of additives, but layer count by itself does not guarantee better performance.
Specifications that matter to dealers and contractors
When comparing quotations, ask every supplier for the same data:
- PAR light transmission (high-transmission films are typically around 88–92%)
- Haze or diffusion level (general films often 15–25%, specialised diffusing films above 50%)
- Thermicity (how well the film holds heat at night)
- Tensile strength, elongation, tear resistance and dart impact
- Thickness and thickness tolerance
- UV stabilisation period and the climate it assumes
- Anti-drip duration, which may be shorter than the film’s UV life
A datasheet that leaves out values is telling you something too.
How light, diffusion and anti-drip affect crops
High light transmission supports photosynthesis, but harsh direct light can scorch upper leaves while lower leaves stay shaded. Diffusing film spreads light deeper into tall crops such as tomatoes and cucumbers. Blocking too much light, on the other hand, can cut yields in light-hungry crops such as capsicum.
Anti-drip performance keeps droplets off leaves, which reduces leaf wetness and the disease pressure that follows. Thermal films matter most where nights are cold.
Matching film to East African climates and crops
- Highlands (high altitude, strong UV, cool nights): prioritise a strong UV package, anti-drip and moderate thermal function. Diffusion helps manage midday light intensity.
- Hot lowlands and coast: focus on heat management, ventilation and UV life. Avoid heavy shading of high-light crops.
- Arid and dusty areas: diffusing films reduce hot spots; plan for cleaning access because dust cuts transmission.
For seedlings and leafy greens, uniform light and condensation control matter most. Tomatoes and cucumbers benefit from better light in the lower canopy. See our greenhouse agriculture solutions for complete material packages.
How to prevent premature film failure
- Keep rolls dry, shaded and off the ground until installation
- Pad or remove sharp edges, rust and rough timber on the frame
- Avoid installing in extreme heat or cold, and tension the film evenly
- Limit contact with sulfur, chlorine and concentrated pesticide residues, which attack UV stabilisers
- Inspect after strong winds and repair small tears early
Buyer’s checklist
- Location, crop and structure type
- Width, length and target thickness
- Expected service life and UV requirement
- Anti-drip, anti-fog, diffusion and thermal needs
- Quantity, packaging and delivery schedule
- Datasheet, test methods and batch traceability
Frequently asked questions
What thickness is most common for commercial greenhouses?
Around 150 μm is a common long-life choice. Temporary tunnels may use thinner film; harsh conditions may justify 180–200 μm, always assessed alongside UV protection and resin quality.
Is PO film always better than PE film?
No. Performance depends on resin, additives, layer design and test results, not on the label.
Does higher light transmission always improve yield?
No. Crops need enough light, but too much direct light can stress plants. The best film balances transmission, diffusion and heat.
Does anti-drip performance last as long as the film?
Not necessarily. Ask for a separate anti-drip duration.
Wholesale enquiries
Choosing film for your next greenhouse?
Tell us your crop, site and quantities on WhatsApp. Our Nairobi team will reply with stock availability, specifications and a wholesale quote.
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